Oxygen recovery kinetics in the forearm flexors of multiple ability groups of rock climbers.

Simon M Fryer, Lee Stoner, Tabitha G Dickson, Stephen Draper, Michael J McCluskey, Johnathan D Hughes, Stephen C How, Nick Draper

Research output: Contribution to journalJournal Article

12 Citations (Scopus)
16 Downloads (Pure)

Abstract

The purpose of this study was to determine muscle tissue oxidative capacity and recovery in intermediate, advanced, and elite rock climbers. Forty-four male participants performed (a) sustained and (b) intermittent contractions at 40% of maximal volitional contraction (MVC) on a sport-specific fingerboard until volitional fatigue. Near-infrared spectroscopy was used to assess muscle tissue oxygenation during both the exercise and the 5-minutes passive recovery period, in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) and flexor carpi radialis (FCR). During the sustained contraction only, muscle tissue deoxygenation (O2 debt) in the FDP and FCR was significantly greater in elite climbers compared with the control, intermediate, and advanced groups (FDP: 32 vs. 15, 19, 22%; FCR: 19 vs. 11, 8, 15%, respectively). However, elite climbers had a significantly quicker time to half recovery (T1/2) than the control and intermediate groups in the FDP (8 vs. 95 and 47 seconds, respectively) and the FCR (7 vs. 30 and 97 seconds, respectively) because the O2% recovered per second being significantly greater (FDP: 4.2 vs. 0.7 and 0.3; FCR: 4.8 vs. 0.1 and 0.2, respectively). Furthermore, during the intermittent contraction, T1/2 in elite climbers was significantly quicker compared with the control and intermediate groups in the FDP (8 vs. 93 and 83 seconds, respectively) and FCR (16 vs. 76 and 50 seconds, respectively). Consequently, lower-level climbers should focus training on specific intermittent fatigue protocols. Competition or elite climbers should make use of appropriate rests on route to aid recovery and increase the chances of reaching the next hold.
Original languageEnglish
Pages (from-to)1633-1639
Number of pages7
JournalJournal of Strength and Conditioning Research
Volume29
Issue number6
DOIs
Publication statusPublished - 2015

Fingerprint

Forearm
Oxygen
Muscles
Fatigue
Control Groups
Near-Infrared Spectroscopy
Sports

Cite this

Fryer, Simon M ; Stoner, Lee ; Dickson, Tabitha G ; Draper, Stephen ; McCluskey, Michael J ; Hughes, Johnathan D ; How, Stephen C ; Draper, Nick. / Oxygen recovery kinetics in the forearm flexors of multiple ability groups of rock climbers. In: Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research. 2015 ; Vol. 29, No. 6. pp. 1633-1639.
@article{9cce76601aa4423484dc927ac1ab86be,
title = "Oxygen recovery kinetics in the forearm flexors of multiple ability groups of rock climbers.",
abstract = "The purpose of this study was to determine muscle tissue oxidative capacity and recovery in intermediate, advanced, and elite rock climbers. Forty-four male participants performed (a) sustained and (b) intermittent contractions at 40{\%} of maximal volitional contraction (MVC) on a sport-specific fingerboard until volitional fatigue. Near-infrared spectroscopy was used to assess muscle tissue oxygenation during both the exercise and the 5-minutes passive recovery period, in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) and flexor carpi radialis (FCR). During the sustained contraction only, muscle tissue deoxygenation (O2 debt) in the FDP and FCR was significantly greater in elite climbers compared with the control, intermediate, and advanced groups (FDP: 32 vs. 15, 19, 22{\%}; FCR: 19 vs. 11, 8, 15{\%}, respectively). However, elite climbers had a significantly quicker time to half recovery (T1/2) than the control and intermediate groups in the FDP (8 vs. 95 and 47 seconds, respectively) and the FCR (7 vs. 30 and 97 seconds, respectively) because the O2{\%} recovered per second being significantly greater (FDP: 4.2 vs. 0.7 and 0.3; FCR: 4.8 vs. 0.1 and 0.2, respectively). Furthermore, during the intermittent contraction, T1/2 in elite climbers was significantly quicker compared with the control and intermediate groups in the FDP (8 vs. 93 and 83 seconds, respectively) and FCR (16 vs. 76 and 50 seconds, respectively). Consequently, lower-level climbers should focus training on specific intermittent fatigue protocols. Competition or elite climbers should make use of appropriate rests on route to aid recovery and increase the chances of reaching the next hold.",
author = "Fryer, {Simon M} and Lee Stoner and Dickson, {Tabitha G} and Stephen Draper and McCluskey, {Michael J} and Hughes, {Johnathan D} and How, {Stephen C} and Nick Draper",
year = "2015",
doi = "10.1519/JSC.0000000000000804",
language = "English",
volume = "29",
pages = "1633--1639",
journal = "Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research",
issn = "1064-8011",
publisher = "NSCA National Strength and Conditioning Association",
number = "6",

}

Oxygen recovery kinetics in the forearm flexors of multiple ability groups of rock climbers. / Fryer, Simon M; Stoner, Lee; Dickson, Tabitha G; Draper, Stephen; McCluskey, Michael J; Hughes, Johnathan D; How, Stephen C; Draper, Nick.

In: Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research, Vol. 29, No. 6, 2015, p. 1633-1639.

Research output: Contribution to journalJournal Article

TY - JOUR

T1 - Oxygen recovery kinetics in the forearm flexors of multiple ability groups of rock climbers.

AU - Fryer, Simon M

AU - Stoner, Lee

AU - Dickson, Tabitha G

AU - Draper, Stephen

AU - McCluskey, Michael J

AU - Hughes, Johnathan D

AU - How, Stephen C

AU - Draper, Nick

PY - 2015

Y1 - 2015

N2 - The purpose of this study was to determine muscle tissue oxidative capacity and recovery in intermediate, advanced, and elite rock climbers. Forty-four male participants performed (a) sustained and (b) intermittent contractions at 40% of maximal volitional contraction (MVC) on a sport-specific fingerboard until volitional fatigue. Near-infrared spectroscopy was used to assess muscle tissue oxygenation during both the exercise and the 5-minutes passive recovery period, in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) and flexor carpi radialis (FCR). During the sustained contraction only, muscle tissue deoxygenation (O2 debt) in the FDP and FCR was significantly greater in elite climbers compared with the control, intermediate, and advanced groups (FDP: 32 vs. 15, 19, 22%; FCR: 19 vs. 11, 8, 15%, respectively). However, elite climbers had a significantly quicker time to half recovery (T1/2) than the control and intermediate groups in the FDP (8 vs. 95 and 47 seconds, respectively) and the FCR (7 vs. 30 and 97 seconds, respectively) because the O2% recovered per second being significantly greater (FDP: 4.2 vs. 0.7 and 0.3; FCR: 4.8 vs. 0.1 and 0.2, respectively). Furthermore, during the intermittent contraction, T1/2 in elite climbers was significantly quicker compared with the control and intermediate groups in the FDP (8 vs. 93 and 83 seconds, respectively) and FCR (16 vs. 76 and 50 seconds, respectively). Consequently, lower-level climbers should focus training on specific intermittent fatigue protocols. Competition or elite climbers should make use of appropriate rests on route to aid recovery and increase the chances of reaching the next hold.

AB - The purpose of this study was to determine muscle tissue oxidative capacity and recovery in intermediate, advanced, and elite rock climbers. Forty-four male participants performed (a) sustained and (b) intermittent contractions at 40% of maximal volitional contraction (MVC) on a sport-specific fingerboard until volitional fatigue. Near-infrared spectroscopy was used to assess muscle tissue oxygenation during both the exercise and the 5-minutes passive recovery period, in the flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) and flexor carpi radialis (FCR). During the sustained contraction only, muscle tissue deoxygenation (O2 debt) in the FDP and FCR was significantly greater in elite climbers compared with the control, intermediate, and advanced groups (FDP: 32 vs. 15, 19, 22%; FCR: 19 vs. 11, 8, 15%, respectively). However, elite climbers had a significantly quicker time to half recovery (T1/2) than the control and intermediate groups in the FDP (8 vs. 95 and 47 seconds, respectively) and the FCR (7 vs. 30 and 97 seconds, respectively) because the O2% recovered per second being significantly greater (FDP: 4.2 vs. 0.7 and 0.3; FCR: 4.8 vs. 0.1 and 0.2, respectively). Furthermore, during the intermittent contraction, T1/2 in elite climbers was significantly quicker compared with the control and intermediate groups in the FDP (8 vs. 93 and 83 seconds, respectively) and FCR (16 vs. 76 and 50 seconds, respectively). Consequently, lower-level climbers should focus training on specific intermittent fatigue protocols. Competition or elite climbers should make use of appropriate rests on route to aid recovery and increase the chances of reaching the next hold.

U2 - 10.1519/JSC.0000000000000804

DO - 10.1519/JSC.0000000000000804

M3 - Journal Article

VL - 29

SP - 1633

EP - 1639

JO - Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research

JF - Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research

SN - 1064-8011

IS - 6

ER -